Summer holiday 2003
le Cap D′Agde − France


Tuesday, 15th july

We get up early and go for some fresh bread and croissants. Early because for today I have planned a visit to the medieval citadel of Carcassone. I have been looking out for this day for a long time, ever since we decided to spend our vacation in this region of France. It is not just the impressive citadel but also the events that took place in this region so many centuries ago.

Out here a group of people, that the church in Rome had named Cathars, started a new Christian like religion. The brutal and merciless reprisal of the church in Rome to this religious competition that banned any form of violence and lying was total! None of them survived the power struggle with Rome. There is too much to tell about this subject, so follow the links for more elaborate information regarding the Cathars. The historical implications of Carcassonne are intriguing. There is no other way that I can explain this; I just have to go there!

It is already quit sunny and warm when I hit the road at 10:00 hr.. I follow the country roads instead of the turnpike road, because you see a lot more of the surrounding landscape and villages. Obviously it takes a little longer to reach the objective, but it is well worth my wile. Leaving Cap D´Agde behind me, I follow the N112 into the direction of Béziers (18 tot 20 km). As of Béziers I follow D11 to Capestang and Olonzac.

Road signs directing to Trebes and Carcassonne (52 km) start to appear. I have been warned in advance that these roads can be quite congested with traffic at times, but only every now and then a car passes by into the opposite direction. It is great fun driving here; there is so much to see in this beautiful region. The outskirts of the Pyrenees for starters, and the large vinegars of the Minervois. Outstanding!

A few miles after Capestang I stop the car alongside the road. Out here the "Canal du Midi" runs parallel to the road. This man made canal was finalised in 1666, truly an engineering wonder for its time. On both sides of the canal a path runs alongside it. During the old days the shippers would let the horses that pulled the barges through the canal walk in these pathways. During the length of the canal on both sides the canal is flanked with a tall continues row of old plane-trees. These cast their shadows across both the path and the water, thus keeping the horses cool and preventing the water from evaporating. This makes it a cool and an attractive place to be. These day´s the elongated barges that carry the tourists along the canals are motor driven. It all reflects a peaceful and a rural atmosphere. Before moving along, I sit here for half an hour enjoying the view and watching the ducks swim bye.

When I reach Trebes, a small picturesque town just before Carcassonne, I pull over again. This time it is for the shutters in the canal. Near the canal and under the high plane-trees, here also it is quiet and comfortably cool. There are some more tourists sitting here, observing the movements of the yachts and barges that use the canals shutters. Fifteen minutes and a few photographs later I get into the car again, cross the canal, and head for the citadel of Carcassonne. Having arrived at the outskirts of Carcassonne I now follow the signs "la Cite" that guide me up hill to the large parking area.

Near the citadel it is very crowded. People are coming and going. While walking to the main gate the "Porte Narbonnaisse", a strong wind kicks up lots of dust. I cross the drawbridge and enter through city gate in enclosure between the outer and inner city wall. The first city wall, because two rings of city walls enclose Carcassonne. Next I enter the ancient city itself through the gate in the second wall and finely my feet touch these thousand year old cobblestone paved streets. Here I stand shoulder to shoulder with thousands of other tourists that populate these medieval streets today.

I touch the wall of the building I am standing next to. Maybe I will absorb some of its energy, who knows. Slowly I manoeuvre through the crowd following the "Rue Cros-Mayreveille" which leads to the "Place du Cháteau". Whilst admiring and photographing the medieval architecture of the closely packed buildings, I try to ignore the very many others around me. I walk through streets that are hardly 7 feet wide and have many small shops on both sides that unfortunately only seem to sell souvenirs or food.

The square "Place du Cháteau" proves to be oases of space after the narrow streets that I have just passed through. Across it on the other side the walls of the "Cháteau Comtal" rise. This palace used to be the residence of the former vice count of Carcassonne, Raymond-Roger Trencavel (Trencavel dynasty: 1082–1209). It is open for the public, but only after paying an admittance fee.

At this moment a huge queue of people is already waiting and I therefore postpone my visit and continue my city quest following the "Rue Porte d"Aude". This brings me behind the "Cháteau Comtal" and onto the outer city wall, which offers me an impressive view over the chapel of St. Gimer situated right below me, and across the new city of Carcassonne that stretches in front of me.

I follow the wall that protectively curves around the city and enjoy the stunning view for miles around that it offers me. Every now and then the strength of the wind increases again, resulting in lots of sand being thrown into the air causing people to cover their eyes. Eventually I end up again at the "Porte Narbonnaisse". At my left and right the outer and inner city wall tower above me while I continue my quest to the southern section of the city.

Then a young woman dressed like a medieval damsel presses a flyer into my hand. Apparently during the tourist season a number of actors perform in a medieval joust to entertain the very many tourists here. The joust takes place in a theatre that is raised from scaffolding in the southern part of Carcassonne, near the Basilica. Behind a rough wooden fence I can see the tops of a number of colourful tents modelled after the ones that were in use during the middle Ages. Here also an admittance fee is charged.

Unfortunately I have no time for this, since I want to make a second tour around town for some video shots. During the first one I made photographs only. So I take another tour around town, admiring and filming the impressive architecture. After my second tour I decide that it has been enough. I have all the material I want and by now my feet are killing me. I therefore return to the parking area to pick up the car and then head for home.

Leaving Carcassonne I initially follow the signs directing me to Narbonne. Do keep in mind to take a left turn at the junction that brings you to Marseillette, a small village between Trebes and Béziers. If you don´t, then like me, you will end up on the south side of the "Canal du Midi" rather then the north side, and this here road brings you to Capendu and not to Béziers. So I turn back and follow the signs that direct me to Marseillette.

When coming from Carcassonne and following directions to Narbonne, at some point the road gently bends to the right. Here in the curve, at the left is the junction to Marseillette. A narrow street flanked with plane-trees. The road sign at the right side of the street indicating directions to Marseillette is equally small. I was passed it before I even noticed it. And in the abundance of road signs present I never saw a sign directing me to Trebes at all. Trebes by the way is lot closer by then Marseillette. Strange people these French!

As of now it is this morning´s reversal, all the way back to Béziers. When reaching Béziers I follow the road signs "Tout Directions" (all directions), until road signs start to appear that give me direction to the small airfield at Vias and to Vias itself. These signs are white with a black rim around them. Do not miss them and do follow them! Soon after, signs giving directions to Agde start to appear.

Arrived at the apartment I learn that both the boys went to the nearby public park "de Lano". The animation team has organised a soccer match, and the game takes place at the park. Plenty of space here, so there is no risk of breaking any windows!

Tonight also the animation team has organised a pool disco, and again a whole mass of children has gathered at the pool entrance, waiting for the clock to strike 21:00 hr.. When the captain of the animation team gives the signal, all the children jump into the water loudly screaming and splashing, and the music opens with a loud "Twisting by the pool". Tonight also an enthusiastic animation team joins the kids in the pool, dancing and splashing in the water.

When finished we return to the apartment to have drink or read some before turning in for the night.